[Japan] where Ghibli becomes real – last episode

Shikoku (四国) is one of the five main islands of Japan, and probably the least popular one among tourists. Yet, it hosts one of the world’s biggest contemporary art festival, Setouchi Triennale (瀬戸内国際芸術祭) every three years. For this reason, the Ghibli power is never a spotlight for the provinces, as the artistic image is overwhelming.

Kiki’s Delivery Service (live-action), Shodoshima

Instead of reference, they actually shot the live-action at Shodoshima Olive Park. It is the first farm that successfully planted olives in Japan.

Nowadays, it is being used as a Kiki X Olive theme park. There are brooms for free rental, remember to hook it back on the rack besides the concierge.

There are varies props for people to get instagrammable pics. Trend is to capture the moment of jumping with the broom, to imitate Kiki, the witch trainee riding it.

Kiki’s home in the movie, actually exists as a shop. It’s close to the olive branches, you can collect olive leaves and DIY your own bookmark.

A mile from the Olive Park main attractions, there is a building called ‘Sun Olive‘, which has an open-air hot spring with phenomenal sea view.

Access

There are ferries from many nearby cities. The fastest and most frequent service is from Takamatsu. After you get off the pier, take the Shodoshima Olive bus and get off at the Olive Park.

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Spirited Away, Matsuyama

Matsuyama has many historical features.

From the train station to trams, all of them are in antique style. But still, Matsuyama is relatively busier than Takamatsu.

Dogo Onsen is a hot spring facility, where the ‘Honkan‘ part (oldest building) is being used as the reference for Spirited Away’s bath. The building is a Meiji Period wooden public bathhouse dating from 1894.

There were quite a lot of people (it was holiday in Jap), we had to buy the ticket from the box office, and enter later at the assigned time. There are different packages mainly defined by floors, mine include snacks and reserved seats on the 2nd floor. 1st floor is the big area and 3rd floor has private rooms.

Everyone get changed to Yukata in the restroom at the very beginning. On the 2nd floor, there were good shampoo (Shiseido tsubaki), soap and hairdryer, there was nothing when I went to the 1st floor. But the main onsen is on the 1st floor…not that impressive though, but the one on 2nd floor is just like a bigger bathtub. You wear the yukata when you travel among the floors and take it off at the locker room outside each bath.

After you finished bathing, they will give you traditional snacks, cookies (eaten before I took a pic sorry) and refillable tea. (I bought the milk) There is a shop right next to the resting space, selling souvenirs and beverages. Surprisingly, the price was quite cheap, soap was 200 yen and towels were less than 1000.

Before you go, a staff will show you around the building, in your preferred language. You can visit the terrance and look back to the city.


Access

Take the JR Shinkansen to Matsuyama station, change to trams and get off at ‘Dogo Onsen’ station. You need to walk pass the entire souvenir street to see the building.

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Bonus

Relatively not popular Ghibli titles, ‘Whisper of the Heart’ and ‘Pom Poko’, both referenced a small town in western Tokyo, ‘Seiseki Sakuraga oka’ (聖蹟桜ケ丘). Almost everything of ‘Whisper of the Heart’ are based on the town, so it’s a must-go if you are a fan. Reach by Keio Line from Shinjuku.

[Japan] where Ghibli becomes real – ‘Princess Mononoke’ pt 2

Being selected as a location reference of a Ghibli film is super lucky, even an isolated island can receive instant spotlight globally. But after all, Ghibli does not mean to be an endorser.

This island has been using too much Miyazaki power, resulting in hatred from Ghibli and removal of all Ghibli-related promotions.

Yakushima (屋久島)

Yakushima, an island in Kyushu near Kagoshima. 1/5 of the island is UNESCO World Heritage Site, so you gotta plan ahead before you get there as most parts are pretty abandoned.

And, do not expect any of them understanding English.

Shiratani Unsuikyo (白谷雲水峡)

There are dozens of hiking route on this island, access to the Ghibli part is relatively easy. Return route was around 5 hours, including tons of time taking photos. Just make sure you stop going uphill after the Ghibli place.

‘Sui’ and ‘tani’ means Water Valley, along the way there are streams everywhere or maybe under your feet. You can drink the water, really clean and tasty. But also get well equipped, coz it gets really slippery with the water and moses.

The starting point is right next to the parking place. You have to pay 300 yen entrance fee and register your personal contacts. After you finish the route, you need to report to the same place to confirm your safety.

Granite made up the island, so get ready to slip! With rainforest climate, heavy rain is always expected. I was lucky enough but there was snow in the shadow and showers in the sunshine. Extreme mountain climate alert.

Cedar trees are what the island is famous for. The oldest cedar tree on the island, ‘Jomon Sugi‘, is expected to be 2000~7000 years old. But to reach the deck nearest to the tree, you need to climb 8-10 hours, definitely beyond my capability.

On the way, there is one toilet. And it is the only construction I’ve seen in the forest. There is a room, with nothing, for you to hide for a night in case.

Mononoke Forest / kokemusu mori (苔むす森)

It was mid Feb, I was really lucky to witness this magnificent fusion of snow and moses. For most of the time, the forest is just about the moses, still beautiful though.

Originally, there was a huge sign written ‘もののけ姫の森’ (forest of Princess Mononoke) around the area, now removed coz of Ghibli opposition.

I have asked several Japanese, how long till I can reach the forest, seemed that they were not really familiar. Most of the visitors are first time tourists like me, or students in groups to study cedar trees.

Make sure that you give up at the right time. Extreme weather + snow + moses + no paved paths can be really tiring. There are no steep slopes till the forest, but my friend slipped and had a great fall… the signal is not very stable and there are no lights. Not a difficult hike, but need preparation.



Access

There are no direct international flight to the island. There is an airport with flights from Kagoshima and Osaka, but most people got there by ferry. It took me 2 hours from Kagoshima to Miyanoura (宮之浦) pier, not a very smooth journey… take some pills if you suffer severe seasick

Near the pier, there are a few car rental shops. I suggest you to book ahead, and trust me, it makes life easier. Taxis need to be reserved beforehand, and only 2-3 buses daily on each route. And you can’t get to any of the hiking paths on foot, all of them are on the mountains. (e.g. this hike to forest is mostly at 900m altitude)

Food & Accommodation

The restaurant is called お食事処 潮騒 (Shiosai), recommended by the locals. As I remember it’s less then 1000 yen, and this prawn is twice the size of my hand.

I stayed in 民宿屋久島 (Minshuku Yakushima), most of the hotel packages on the island include dinner and breakfast. And YOU NEED IT, coz all shops close really early and there are not many shops at all.

This was half of the dinner course I had, was not able to take a pic of the full course coz they gave in order. Totally worth it! It costs me less than 6000 yen with sea view (dinner + breakfast + accommodation).

It’s a really good chance to experience a traditional Japanese life, but Japanese in ancient times only ate fish, so if you are allergic to seafood, you may need to bring some cup noodles.


Useful links (but no English…)

Hostel: 民宿屋久島

Transportation on Yakushima

Ferry to Yakushima

[Japan] where Ghibli becomes real – ‘Princess Mononoke’ pt 1

‘Princess Mononoke (もののけ姫)’, a masterpiece that Miyazaki Hayao spent 16 years developing the concept and 3 entire years making it. Miyazaki urged Ghibli studio to create this piece before he’s too old, as there are lots of action scenes and the theme is very serious comparing to others.

Shirakami Sanchi (白神山地)

Located across Aomori and Akita Prefecture in the Northeast of Japan, this is the reference for the village that Ashitaka, the main role lives. The forest is around 170 sq. km big with natural habitats, no wonder it becomes UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Twelve Lakes ‘Jyuni-ko’ (十二湖)

As the forest is not easily accessible and tbh it is quite a normal forest… Jyuni-ko, meaning ’12 lakes’, is the most worthy place to visit. The area has got more than 12 lakes, and is close to a train station.

Aoi Pond (青池) is very famous for its beautiful sapphire blue color. The clear water shimmering under sunlight, the space, the voice of nature (birds, waterfalls, waves…) and the weather of Aomori summer (around 16-20 degrees) provide a revitalizing experience.

Good thing of not many tourists is, there are free stuff. At the tearoom next to Ochiguchino Pond (落口の池), you can receive a free cup of green tea with Japanese traditional snacks.

A few steps from the tea room, you can collect water from Wakitsubo Pond (沸壷の池), being nominated as one of the ‘Heisei era best 100 water’ (平成の名水百選). The water was sweet (in a natural way) and cold. All good coz I didn’t have tummy trouble.

Unlike Tokyo or Osaka, it’s a rare choice of traveling, but also a good choice to enjoy interactions with the locals. People in Aomori are really nice and helpful. Just make sure don’t go there in winter, freezing cold and all paths to the mountains are closed.

Special Express ‘Resort Shirakami’

Take a break from car rental, coz the special train ‘Resort Shirakami’ can’t be missed! It travels between Aomori and Akita. It is not only for commute, it’s a tour itself!

Remember to grab a free postcard and stamp the train model pattern on it. Also don’t forget to buy apple ice-cream from the bar (Aomori is famous for apple)! And yes, this train has a bar, with alcohol and snacks 🙂

The whole journey makes a few stops, each has ~15mins for you to get off and take pictures. Like tour couch, there are announcements explaining all the spots outside the window, and sometimes there is performance of the traditional music instrument ‘Tsugaru-jamisen’ on 1 of the cabins.

Access & station info

Just get off at Jyuniko station and interchange for the bus to Aoi Pond. But you may have to wait for around an hour.

To kill time, go have lunch ‘Omakase set’ at Seikanso Tsunamoto Restaurant (静観荘網元), right across the station. The seafood are super fresh and delicious! And surprisingly, the set above only cost me 1000 yen!!!

If you don’t have enough time, try the Aoi Pond ice-cream at station shop. It said yoghurt flavor, which is weird but not bad.


Do not take the last bus/train.
There are basically nothing around the area.

[Australia] where Ghibli becomes real

Miyazaki Hayao (宮崎駿) creates mesmerizing worlds for each of his animation. He maybe the God of creativity, but still he gets inspired from the real world. In fact, there are a list of possible inspirations, or at least a related motif resembling his works.

Valley of the Winds, Northern Territory

Mount Olga, or Kata Tjuta (meaning ‘many heads’ in aboriginal language) is a domed rock formation, sharing the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park with the famous Ayers Rock.

Rumor claims that ‘Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind’ takes reference from the landscape. Actually from some shots of the opening song, you can see some graphics mimicking the aboriginals’ cave drawings.

The area is considered as sacred among the aboriginals, do not take away any sand/stones and follow the assigned route. And it’s recommended to stay >1 m away from the edge as natural erosions occur any sec.

Being called ‘Valley of the Winds’, the temperature varies at different parts. The shade with wind is quite chilly, while others can give you heat stroke. Someone died from heart attack as he jumped from deep heat into a freezing pond. I put my legs inside a small pond in the park, ended up screaming as it was FULL OF LEECHES!

Flinders Street Station/Tram, Melbourne

Flinders Street Station is the biggest railway station of Melbourne, located right at the city center along Yarra River. The building in art nouveau style is more than 100 years old and is registered as a heritage of the state.

Rumor claims that ‘Kiki’s Delivery Service’ takes reference from the metropolitan area of Melbourne, including the mixing of old and new buildings, clock towers and tram systems.

Being the most livable city for years, Melbourne perfectly balances the city and the green, the heritage and the moderns. Right opposite the station, you can find Federation Square and St. Paul’s Cathedral in Gothic style; just a few steps forward, there are Arts Centre and the National Gallery of Victoria. A few streets parallel to that, you can reach the famous Crown Casino. All within walking distance along the dockside.

The Melbourne General Post Office has a historical clock tower as well, and surprisingly this heritage is currently rented by H&M. Shouldn’t miss the chance of putting on the cheapest fast-fashion nowadays, with a taste of 18th century.

And yeah, the tram. Many cities have trams, but the City Circle trams really look exactly like the ones in Kiki’s. And the best thing is, it’s FREE!

Loch Ard Gorge, Great Ocean Road

Some says it looks like one of the beach in ‘Porco Rosso’. I think other nominations look way more similar, but the Great Ocean Road is still a must-go if you are not suffering from carsick.

Cityscape, Tasmania

I’m not so sure about these two, as there are no landmarks or exact evidence. Rumor claims that the city of ‘Kiki’s Delivery Service’ has similarities to Hobart and Launceston in Tasmania. Let’s see.

I didn’t take photo of Launceston Clock Tower, but the cityscape does kinda look like the one in Kiki’s, I mean the whole atmosphere?

It looks like the scene where Kiki wakes up on the train and looks at the city far away.

For Hobart… ummm… yes it’s a nice cozy town by the sea, but I couldn’t see anything reminding me of Kiki’s…

Maybe only the witchery ceremony that I witnessed, at Salamanca (Hobart centre)?


…Ghibli series TBC >>>