Being selected as a location reference of a Ghibli film is super lucky, even an isolated island can receive instant spotlight globally. But after all, Ghibli does not mean to be an endorser.
This island has been using too much Miyazaki power, resulting in hatred from Ghibli and removal of all Ghibli-related promotions.
Yakushima (屋久島)
Yakushima, an island in Kyushu near Kagoshima. 1/5 of the island is UNESCO World Heritage Site, so you gotta plan ahead before you get there as most parts are pretty abandoned.
And, do not expect any of them understanding English.
Shiratani Unsuikyo (白谷雲水峡)
There are dozens of hiking route on this island, access to the Ghibli part is relatively easy. Return route was around 5 hours, including tons of time taking photos. Just make sure you stop going uphill after the Ghibli place.
‘Sui’ and ‘tani’ means Water Valley, along the way there are streams everywhere or maybe under your feet. You can drink the water, really clean and tasty. But also get well equipped, coz it gets really slippery with the water and moses.
The starting point is right next to the parking place. You have to pay 300 yen entrance fee and register your personal contacts. After you finish the route, you need to report to the same place to confirm your safety.
Granite made up the island, so get ready to slip! With rainforest climate, heavy rain is always expected. I was lucky enough but there was snow in the shadow and showers in the sunshine. Extreme mountain climate alert.
Cedar trees are what the island is famous for. The oldest cedar tree on the island, ‘Jomon Sugi‘, is expected to be 2000~7000 years old. But to reach the deck nearest to the tree, you need to climb 8-10 hours, definitely beyond my capability.
On the way, there is one toilet. And it is the only construction I’ve seen in the forest. There is a room, with nothing, for you to hide for a night in case.
Mononoke Forest / kokemusu mori (苔むす森)
It was mid Feb, I was really lucky to witness this magnificent fusion of snow and moses. For most of the time, the forest is just about the moses, still beautiful though.
Originally, there was a huge sign written ‘もののけ姫の森’ (forest of Princess Mononoke) around the area, now removed coz of Ghibli opposition.
I have asked several Japanese, how long till I can reach the forest, seemed that they were not really familiar. Most of the visitors are first time tourists like me, or students in groups to study cedar trees.
Make sure that you give up at the right time. Extreme weather + snow + moses + no paved paths can be really tiring. There are no steep slopes till the forest, but my friend slipped and had a great fall… the signal is not very stable and there are no lights. Not a difficult hike, but need preparation.
Access
There are no direct international flight to the island. There is an airport with flights from Kagoshima and Osaka, but most people got there by ferry. It took me 2 hours from Kagoshima to Miyanoura (宮之浦) pier, not a very smooth journey… take some pills if you suffer severe seasick
Near the pier, there are a few car rental shops. I suggest you to book ahead, and trust me, it makes life easier. Taxis need to be reserved beforehand, and only 2-3 buses daily on each route. And you can’t get to any of the hiking paths on foot, all of them are on the mountains. (e.g. this hike to forest is mostly at 900m altitude)
Food & Accommodation
The restaurant is called お食事処 潮騒 (Shiosai), recommended by the locals. As I remember it’s less then 1000 yen, and this prawn is twice the size of my hand.
I stayed in 民宿屋久島 (Minshuku Yakushima), most of the hotel packages on the island include dinner and breakfast. And YOU NEED IT, coz all shops close really early and there are not many shops at all.
This was half of the dinner course I had, was not able to take a pic of the full course coz they gave in order. Totally worth it! It costs me less than 6000 yen with sea view (dinner + breakfast + accommodation).
It’s a really good chance to experience a traditional Japanese life, but Japanese in ancient times only ate fish, so if you are allergic to seafood, you may need to bring some cup noodles.
Norms & Weirdos 