Café in the World – Modern Revival

Even a glamorous architecture loses its shine without audience.

Therefore many of them, after completing the original mission, evolve into something new. And places which are once out of our reach, become very friendly.

Café Gloriette

Schönbrunn Palace, Vienna

The Schonbrunn Palace is a must-go tourist spot in Vienna (it’s the yellowish palace you see on postcards), and the Gloriette is right in its garden.

As the Gloriette is elevated with respect to its surroundings, the cafe was being used as the dining hall of the Emperor back in the 17th century, and the roof as an observation lookout throughout the years. The places wasn’t open to the public until 90s.

The cafe is famous for its ‘Sisi Torte‘ – cake with orange and nougat cream. I ordered the ‘Mozart Torte‘ instead as I hate fruit-flavored additives. Mozart Torte is a crispy cake, with pistachio marzipan and chocolate/hazelnut cream. Tourists may need to google all the cake names to understand what it actually means, the cafe has lots of exclusive dessert variations.

The Torte tastes good, and the price is slightly high for the imperial taste.

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Schlosscafé Im Palmenhaus

Schloss Nymphenburg, Munich

The outlook doesn’t match with Nymphenburg Palace, coz it was a green house during the dynasty. It was a isolated corner in the garden of the palace, I went there to get the cream puff discount offered with Munich card. (offer is now unavailable) Anyway there are no other places to eat, as Nymphenburg is located in a residential area and the palace itself is huge.

I love the sophisticated interior. No wonder it’s being used as a wedding venue.

Here comes the ‘Windbeutel‘ (German cream puff) I was shocked by the size (compare the coffee cup!), the cute elderly table besides me clapped after I finished it alone. It was sugary, but surprisingly not feeling that bloated as it’s kinda fluffy. The cream saves the dessert, it’s not the cheap sweeteners one.

I went there in Winter and they were making a gingerbread Nymphenburg from scratch. Crazzyyyyy…

I love this cafe, cozy and warm. Maybe coz it’s a greenhouse?

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Starbucks

Residence for 8th Division Commander, Hirosaki

Yes, it’s a starbucks. Hirosaki is a small city in Aomori prefecture, Japan. Most tourists come for the Hirosaki castle built in 1600, and the Starbucks is right opposite the castle park.

The building is built during the Daisho period (around 1910s), when Western culture started influencing Japan. That’s why the infrastructure is sort of a mix between Western and traditional Japanese design.

I’d leave commenting Starbucks beverage, just loving my seat along the very Japanese-styled sliding door. The shop has different rooms, some with the soldiers’ photos and some in a steam-punkish style, as the place was born in the midst of the machine age.

As the building was once used as residence of the city councillor, it’s still in the area of city council and is being registered as a national heritage.

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Gallery Cafe Gahoe Hankyunghun

Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul

Bukchon is an area in center Seoul, made up by a cluster of traditional Korean houses, ‘hanok’. The area received the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Awards for Culture Heritage Conservation, as it demonstrates cultural activities in most of the ‘hanok’ and it has a 600-year history background.

©Korea Construction Newspaper

I couldn’t take a proper pic of the outside as it was under renovation. For the cafe, it’s a very rare case among the traditional village – it’s newly constructed by a super famous architect in Korea. The architect wanted a place in Bukchon to exhibit art done by his wife, but the government forbids any architecture that may ruin the historical landscape, so he built an ancient house in a modern way.

The basement becomes a gallery, with the cafe on top. It utilizes the ancient ventilation methods, and modern technology to resemble a wooden structure.

Even the beverage is a fusion. This is ‘omija‘, traditional korean tea, in a very modern glassware… omija is made from magnolia berry, and korean ‘fruit tea’ is not really ‘tea’, it’s kinda shallow juice. I am really in love with omija, sour and refreshing, and healthy! (so it claims)

Unofficial info page




Min Family’s House Sarang Chae

Namsangol Hanok Village, Seoul

It’s not really a cafe, but a workshop in a traditional house to make korean tea cakes and to host tea ceremony. The Namsangol Hanok Village is not a living area, but more like a theme park. It has different exhibitions, workshops and performances happening in the historical hanoks.

It costs me 10000 won (10 USD?) for the tea cake making, and that’s all the ingredients… a bit disappointing to be honest. It’s a very traditional type of tea cake in Korea, called ‘Dasik‘, which doesn’t require any cooking/baking. All you do is squeezing the flour with the colored powder such as matcha (green), sakura (pink) and nuts and mix them.

Then you squeeze the mixture into a mould called ‘Dasik plate‘ and done! Add some sugar, or mix some syrup into the flour if less lazy. It tastes good! Just a bit dry coz I was expecting some sauce or cream inside. The teacher could not speak English but I could barely understand the steps and she’s very friendly.

It wasn’t a bad experience, but it’s really simple for its price! I mean I handmade a traditional korean mirror in the cultural exchange center for FREE the day before! Anyway, TOURIST PRICE FOR TOURIST, fair enough.

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Bonus – revival of traditional flavor :

Caffe Pasiya, Korea

~injeolmi toast, injeolmi bingsu, red bean soup with rice cake

It’s a cafe chain famous for its ‘injeolmi’ flavor.
Injeolmi is a glutinous rice cake, often serves with soybean powder, dates and nuts. The toast and the ‘bingsu’ (shaved ice) is a fusion of traditional korean flavor and western dessert. Very nutritious but sweet and instagrammable.

The toast‘s super crispy with honey coating, and it got rice cake in between two layers! The chemical reaction of the crunchiness and chewiness is superb!!

The shaved ice is not really ‘ice’, it’s milk! And then you drizzle condensed milk on top before eating. The milky and rich shaved ice is already very good, the injeolmi just turns things into next level by balancing the sweetness of the original bingsu, making it much more easier and healthier in clearing the entire bowl.

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A word to conclude…

Everything in the planet needs marketing, to upgrade their impressions. Whether it is ‘vintage’ or ‘old-fashioned’ , all depends on its packaging. The revival isn’t only a renovation, but also bringing its meaning of existence back alive.

[Japan] where Ghibli becomes real – ‘Princess Mononoke’ pt 2

Being selected as a location reference of a Ghibli film is super lucky, even an isolated island can receive instant spotlight globally. But after all, Ghibli does not mean to be an endorser.

This island has been using too much Miyazaki power, resulting in hatred from Ghibli and removal of all Ghibli-related promotions.

Yakushima (屋久島)

Yakushima, an island in Kyushu near Kagoshima. 1/5 of the island is UNESCO World Heritage Site, so you gotta plan ahead before you get there as most parts are pretty abandoned.

And, do not expect any of them understanding English.

Shiratani Unsuikyo (白谷雲水峡)

There are dozens of hiking route on this island, access to the Ghibli part is relatively easy. Return route was around 5 hours, including tons of time taking photos. Just make sure you stop going uphill after the Ghibli place.

‘Sui’ and ‘tani’ means Water Valley, along the way there are streams everywhere or maybe under your feet. You can drink the water, really clean and tasty. But also get well equipped, coz it gets really slippery with the water and moses.

The starting point is right next to the parking place. You have to pay 300 yen entrance fee and register your personal contacts. After you finish the route, you need to report to the same place to confirm your safety.

Granite made up the island, so get ready to slip! With rainforest climate, heavy rain is always expected. I was lucky enough but there was snow in the shadow and showers in the sunshine. Extreme mountain climate alert.

Cedar trees are what the island is famous for. The oldest cedar tree on the island, ‘Jomon Sugi‘, is expected to be 2000~7000 years old. But to reach the deck nearest to the tree, you need to climb 8-10 hours, definitely beyond my capability.

On the way, there is one toilet. And it is the only construction I’ve seen in the forest. There is a room, with nothing, for you to hide for a night in case.

Mononoke Forest / kokemusu mori (苔むす森)

It was mid Feb, I was really lucky to witness this magnificent fusion of snow and moses. For most of the time, the forest is just about the moses, still beautiful though.

Originally, there was a huge sign written ‘もののけ姫の森’ (forest of Princess Mononoke) around the area, now removed coz of Ghibli opposition.

I have asked several Japanese, how long till I can reach the forest, seemed that they were not really familiar. Most of the visitors are first time tourists like me, or students in groups to study cedar trees.

Make sure that you give up at the right time. Extreme weather + snow + moses + no paved paths can be really tiring. There are no steep slopes till the forest, but my friend slipped and had a great fall… the signal is not very stable and there are no lights. Not a difficult hike, but need preparation.



Access

There are no direct international flight to the island. There is an airport with flights from Kagoshima and Osaka, but most people got there by ferry. It took me 2 hours from Kagoshima to Miyanoura (宮之浦) pier, not a very smooth journey… take some pills if you suffer severe seasick

Near the pier, there are a few car rental shops. I suggest you to book ahead, and trust me, it makes life easier. Taxis need to be reserved beforehand, and only 2-3 buses daily on each route. And you can’t get to any of the hiking paths on foot, all of them are on the mountains. (e.g. this hike to forest is mostly at 900m altitude)

Food & Accommodation

The restaurant is called お食事処 潮騒 (Shiosai), recommended by the locals. As I remember it’s less then 1000 yen, and this prawn is twice the size of my hand.

I stayed in 民宿屋久島 (Minshuku Yakushima), most of the hotel packages on the island include dinner and breakfast. And YOU NEED IT, coz all shops close really early and there are not many shops at all.

This was half of the dinner course I had, was not able to take a pic of the full course coz they gave in order. Totally worth it! It costs me less than 6000 yen with sea view (dinner + breakfast + accommodation).

It’s a really good chance to experience a traditional Japanese life, but Japanese in ancient times only ate fish, so if you are allergic to seafood, you may need to bring some cup noodles.


Useful links (but no English…)

Hostel: 民宿屋久島

Transportation on Yakushima

Ferry to Yakushima

[Japan] where Ghibli becomes real – ‘Princess Mononoke’ pt 1

‘Princess Mononoke (もののけ姫)’, a masterpiece that Miyazaki Hayao spent 16 years developing the concept and 3 entire years making it. Miyazaki urged Ghibli studio to create this piece before he’s too old, as there are lots of action scenes and the theme is very serious comparing to others.

Shirakami Sanchi (白神山地)

Located across Aomori and Akita Prefecture in the Northeast of Japan, this is the reference for the village that Ashitaka, the main role lives. The forest is around 170 sq. km big with natural habitats, no wonder it becomes UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Twelve Lakes ‘Jyuni-ko’ (十二湖)

As the forest is not easily accessible and tbh it is quite a normal forest… Jyuni-ko, meaning ’12 lakes’, is the most worthy place to visit. The area has got more than 12 lakes, and is close to a train station.

Aoi Pond (青池) is very famous for its beautiful sapphire blue color. The clear water shimmering under sunlight, the space, the voice of nature (birds, waterfalls, waves…) and the weather of Aomori summer (around 16-20 degrees) provide a revitalizing experience.

Good thing of not many tourists is, there are free stuff. At the tearoom next to Ochiguchino Pond (落口の池), you can receive a free cup of green tea with Japanese traditional snacks.

A few steps from the tea room, you can collect water from Wakitsubo Pond (沸壷の池), being nominated as one of the ‘Heisei era best 100 water’ (平成の名水百選). The water was sweet (in a natural way) and cold. All good coz I didn’t have tummy trouble.

Unlike Tokyo or Osaka, it’s a rare choice of traveling, but also a good choice to enjoy interactions with the locals. People in Aomori are really nice and helpful. Just make sure don’t go there in winter, freezing cold and all paths to the mountains are closed.

Special Express ‘Resort Shirakami’

Take a break from car rental, coz the special train ‘Resort Shirakami’ can’t be missed! It travels between Aomori and Akita. It is not only for commute, it’s a tour itself!

Remember to grab a free postcard and stamp the train model pattern on it. Also don’t forget to buy apple ice-cream from the bar (Aomori is famous for apple)! And yes, this train has a bar, with alcohol and snacks 🙂

The whole journey makes a few stops, each has ~15mins for you to get off and take pictures. Like tour couch, there are announcements explaining all the spots outside the window, and sometimes there is performance of the traditional music instrument ‘Tsugaru-jamisen’ on 1 of the cabins.

Access & station info

Just get off at Jyuniko station and interchange for the bus to Aoi Pond. But you may have to wait for around an hour.

To kill time, go have lunch ‘Omakase set’ at Seikanso Tsunamoto Restaurant (静観荘網元), right across the station. The seafood are super fresh and delicious! And surprisingly, the set above only cost me 1000 yen!!!

If you don’t have enough time, try the Aoi Pond ice-cream at station shop. It said yoghurt flavor, which is weird but not bad.


Do not take the last bus/train.
There are basically nothing around the area.